New Term, New Project: Creating a Corset Inspired by Vivienne Westwood’s 1990s Portrait Corset

This term, I’m excited to dive into a new project with some of our Make Spot Sewers that takes me back to my own days studying Contour Fashion. We’ll be working on creating a corset, and I’m drawing inspiration from Vivienne Westwood’s iconic 1990s Portrait Corset. This design not only brings back memories of my studies but also offers an incredible opportunity to explore the intersection of fashion history and contemporary design.

The Portrait Corset, part of Westwood’s Autumn/Winter 1990 collection, was a groundbreaking piece that helped redefine the way we think about corsetry. Westwood took the Victorian foundation garment, traditionally worn under clothes to create an idealised silhouette, and turned it into a striking outerwear statement. This corset, with its boning and lacing, had all the delicacy and femininity of a classic corset, but VW designed it to be seen and celebrated, not hidden.

One of the standout features of the Portrait Corset is the Rococo print on the front panel, which includes a section of François Boucher’s “Daphnis and Chloe”. The print, depicting a shepherd watching a shepherdess sleep, captures the same romantic, idealised beauty that defines Boucher’s work. By incorporating these Rococo themes, Westwood transformed the corset from a simple garment into a sculptural piece of art, full of narrative and empowerment.

This theme of underwear as outerwear became an ongoing trend in fashion, and Westwood played a huge role in making the corset—a once restrictive undergarment—into a symbol of empowerment and style. Corsets are no longer just about shaping the body; under Westwood’s influence, they became an expression of the wearer’s power, creativity, and individuality. Modern corsets have evolved to use much more comfortable fabrics, making them more wearer-friendly without sacrificing style. The trend has continued to inspire designers and is still seen on catwalks today, proving that the corset’s role in fashion has shifted from the private sphere to the front row of fashion.

The Portrait Corset was not just a garment; it was a statement. It allowed women to embrace their bodies in a way that was both powerful and sensual. It redefined what a corset could be, taking it out of the private sphere and placing it front and centre as an artistic and empowering fashion piece. I’m so excited to be revisiting this theme and bringing a little bit of Westwood’s rebellious spirit into our creations.

For my project, I’m upcycling a denim skirt with a Rococo-style print for the front panel, which feels like the perfect fabric to channel that same aesthetic. The print reflects the romantic, ornate elements of the Rococo period. Much like Westwood’s original corset  I’ll be incorporating boning and lacing to give the corset structure, as well as those delicate, feminine lines that made Westwood’s design so iconic.

The result will be a piece that references history while still feeling fresh and contemporary. I can’t wait to share the progress of this project with you and see how everyone’s interpretations come to life. Stay tuned as we explore the beautiful world of corsetry and how it continues to shape the fashion world today. X